Tech Tips

Taking care of your own battery is one of those simple things that will prolong battery life, and save money.
Motorcycle batteries are supposed to last 3-5 years, if they are taken good care of it.

#1 If you do not have a maintenance-free or sealed battery proper battery maintenance means ensuring the electrical juice is at the right level, as indicated by the maximum and minimum “fill” lines for each cell. These levels are etched into the side of your battery. All that’s required is to top-off that electrolyte by adding distilled water.
It’s worth emphasizing that you won’t be adding battery acid to fill up your battery. You’ll be adding distilled water. (Not tap water).
You should check the battery electrolyte levels every month, or 3000 miles.

#2 The main reason motorbike batteries will not last their expected lifetime is because they are left in a motorcycle that has not been used for a long time. Batteries are automatically recharged when the motorcycle is in operation. So, not only do batteries lose their needed recharging when a bike is not being used, but when they are left unused in the cold, that just accelerates their demise.
As part of of battery maintenance point #2, not only should it be removed from your bike in the winter, it should be stored in a location that is warmer than 32 degrees. This keeps your battery from freezing and/or cracking.
Place your battery on a wooden, plastic, or thick cardboard surface NOT on a concrete or metal surface.

#3 When a battery is not in use on a running motorcycle – which is how it gets charged – it is discharging. Regular charging ensures a long life for your battery, even when it’s stored.
Never user a “car battery charger” to charge your motorcycle battery. On the other hand, there are some chargers that can handle both, and it’s just a matter of setting the charger switch correctly. Otherwise, if you use the wrong charger, you’ll supply more current than your motorcycle battery can handle.
The best kind of charger is a “smart” motorcycle battery charger will continuously monitor your stored battery’s
condition, and activate the charging mode when it is needed so that it doesn’t get overcharged, even if it’s supplying
the correct current. Other motorbike battery chargers need to be connected and disconnected so as to not fry your battery.
We recommend to leave the battery charger on for 1 full day once or twice a month while stored.

Since the early ’70’s BMW has recommended single or multigrade oils with a mineral or synthetic base. They must comply with the following classifications:
CCMC: G4 or G5
API: SF, SG, SH

All BMW motorcycles are shipped from the factory with mineral based 10W40 engine oil. Do not change from mineral based oil to synthetic based oil until 6,000 miles. Use appropriate oil to top up. Do not mix oil types together.

Mineral based oil available at OCD Custom Cycles and Repair:
10w40
20w50

Synthetic based oil available at OCD Custom Cycles and Repair:
10w40
15w50
20w50
30w
40w

(This article is paraphrased and adjusted for our purposes from an article on Bench Mark Works Site Warning: If You Have An Older Vehicle, Choose Your Oil Carefully)

In order to comply with federal requirements that key emissions control components on new cars such as catalytic converters last at least 120,000 miles (previously, it was 100,000 miles) automakers have been pushing for reductions in an oil additive known as zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP), which contains phosphorous (as well as zinc and manganese).

The problem for older motorcycles with flat tappet camshafts – which means all motorcycles built before about the mid-1980s, when roller camshafts began to supplant the flat tappet design – is that oils with low ZDDP levels can cause rapid premature wear, even failure, of flat tappet camshafts. In a nutshell, the ZDDP cushions the high pressure point between the lifter crown and the camshaft lobe, acting as anti-friction, anti-wear barrier.

Running without the ZDDP is almost like running without oil — and with the same results.

Levels of ZDDP in commonly available mainstream motor oils – including big-name brands and high dollar synthetics -have been dropping or have been eliminated since the new emissions longevity requirements became effective with the 2004 model year. Unfortunately, many owners of motorcycles with flat tappet camshafts are unaware of the changing formulations -and the threat low-ZDDP oils may represent.

There are still a few oils on the market that have adequate levels of ZDDP. Valvoline VR-1 racing oil contains 1,800 parts per million ZDDP, according to Valvoline – 5 times the amount of other oils. It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need ZDDP. At OCD Custom Cycles and Repair, we have switched our recommended engine oil for 1983 and older BMW’s to 30 weight (winter) and straight 40 weight (summer) Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.

BMW Motorcycles are pretty reliable, but they do need maintenance – it’s no good buying an old (or not so old!) BMW and expecting it to perform flawlessly, year in and year out, after receiving nothing more than the lowest level of maintenance. Many of the necessary tasks are not included in any manual, and some of the most annoying traits, such as dripping carburetors, seem to have been accepted as being all part of BMW folklore.electrolyte levels every month, or 3000 miles.

Always remember that working on your motorcycle can be fraught with danger the risks range from having it fall over on top of you, to setting it and your house on fire, not to mention the possible consequences of poor work, which could result in an accident at speed! Decide what is involved, and obtain any necessary spares before you begin work. Always keep the machine well secured, use the correct tools, keep the workplace clean and tidy, keep children away, check your work carefully, and if you have any doubts, ask someone who knows your life, and those of others, could be at risk. If in doubt, don’t do it!

can wreck your engine, if the steel shim and ‘0’ ring of post-’76 models are not fitted correctly! Always fit the shim into the crankcase, then place a new paper gasket onto the cover, followed by a new ‘0’ ring. Modern filters have built-in seals on their ends, in lieu of the small ‘0’ rings previously fitted.

Remember that many of the ‘0’ rings used on Boxers are of fluroelastomer material, and if overheated will produce hydroflouric acid this very unpleasant substance will pass through your skin, and progressively rot your flesh. Always handle any decomposed rings (eg: from a fire-damaged motorcycle) with caution, using rubber gloves and tweezers. Wash the area with plenty of water before handling. If you are contaminated, wash thoroughly, and seek medical treatment immediately! Remember f left too long before treatment, amputation may be the only option!

is often one which has recently received new float needles, and has had its floats adjusted by the original method this latest method works for all Boxers. With the carburetor on the machine, and the float fully lifted, turn on the fuel. Slowly lower the float, until fuel just begins to flow – the metal float bridge, and the molded line on the float, should be parallel with the float chamber joint face. At this point ensure that the operating tab is at 90′ to the needle. This may require re-alignment and if so, the above procedure will need to be repeated.

through the battery charge warning lamp, and if this circuit is broken by a faulty bulb, the alternator will not self-excite until about 5,000 rpm. Always check that the alternator warning light is on when you first switch on. It should be completely extinguished by 2000rpm

can often be traced to an inaccurate voltmeter – always have yours checked against a known good meter before starting to worry about the various expensive possibilities!

which do not go out can cause some worrying, but always remember that if you reduce the load to ignition only, the battery will run the engine for most of the day. Carry some lightweight jump leads, which will enable you to recharge from a friend’s machine, and most of your immediate problems will recede if you have a faulty charging system.

within a Boxer wiring harness are actually crimped, and it has been found that after about ten years, particularly on the R45/65, water has collected inside the outer sheath and corroded the crimps. The resultant copper-based slurry will conduct, but at higher currents the voltage drop can be enough to cause strange problems, such as total power loss, with the engine stopping, when main beam is selected. Should this occur at night it could be very interesting!